Joe Rollings - Thu 19 Apr 2018 17:53:38 #0
Joe Rollings - Thu 19 Apr 2018 17:58:29 #0
Power hammer is coming together, but I need some straight leaf springs and got no way to heat treat something that long, so I called the spring shop and asked them about dong it, because they do all kinds of stuff to springs.
Guy tells me he gets his 5160 already heat treated and arced and can alter the arc or flatten it or whatever in the press. Anybody care to take a guess if he is just getting it as rolled? If he is doing that, I can just buy 20 feet from admiral and cut it up like I want it and use it. Seems pretty hard when it comes in, so maybe it is used "normalized".
Jeff Reinhardt - Thu 19 Apr 2018 18:51:48 #0
leaf spring steel
I get what is called "Repair plates" and they are from Triangle spring co. Definitely already arched and heat treated. But the heat treat is not full hard. I can cut them with my cutoff bandsaw with a bimetal blade.My spring shop where I buy them will de-arch them for a little extra and that is what I use in my power hammer. He has a press and tooling made from the very large U bolts from truck axles. Pushes between the u bolt laid on its side between the legs and takes many many bites to easily level the spring to flat. The Triangle spring rep was there one day as I visited and he told me Triangle uses ONLY 5160 in the leaf springs.
Chuck - Fri 20 Apr 2018 23:19:35 #0
I have used 5160 in the 'done' stage to annealed.
5160 straight from the spring joints works for 'kindling splitters' but are to soft for dies in my 'Little Giant' fifty. I rose budded the face of the dies to a high(1400+) red, quenched in a warm Texaco quench, colored it back with a rose bud. It works pretty well.
JOE If your making a 'Helm' type just use it as is, while making the arch work for you. A couple of springs(used tandem)off a dodge one ton or even a 3/4 ton should work for a helm. It might be hard to figure the fulcrum.
I use 5160 drops from an Amarillo spring joint for knives. I anneal then re-harden and draw. I really like 5160.
BRUCE--I got suckered into going to Raton, NM for a G & K show. Neitos were gung-ho now they are dragging. I can't see well enough grind to a line or cut handle material to fit. Will just grind to fit. GRIN. Have blacksmithed enough stuff to fill a table, with some older knives.
Good luck to all
Jeff Reinhardt - Sat 21 Apr 2018 06:58:28 #0
Helve hammer spring
I use spraings tempered as bought in my helve hammer. Mine is a 70#.
Joe Rollings - Sat 21 Apr 2018 14:05:17 #0
Well, I took the advice and straightened the springs as instructed right down to pressing them between the legs of the U bolt, and it worked just dandy!
Turns out after much agonizing that the hammer will be 100 pounds, the anvil around 1300, the base plate is 3 four foot sections of 10" H beam welded together that should come to about another 600 pounds. Should be close to a 20/1 ratio, and I could have added more hammer but I dunno what I would do with more than 100 pounds of hammer. I can't pick up much more than 100 pound work piece any more, and even then I better be picking it up from a bench, not the floor.
Ready to address the pivot and guide, now. I was going to make the clutch a slipping flat belt, but I guess that tire clutch has such a good reputation that there is no need bucking success. I'm thinking I may use a stack of hard rubber wheels instead of a metal roller to rub against the tire, though. Might make the tires last longer and be cheaper than a big old slug of metal anyway.
Thank y'all for your help, and everybody be careful. We don't hold up like we used to....God bless.....Joe
Jeff Reinhardt - Sun 22 Apr 2018 07:01:18 #0
Joe my hammer has the tire clutch and it far out performs the slipping belt I had before. I used the rear bearing hub assembly off a 1990 Gran Voyager. It has a bolt flange, sealed taper roller bearings and has worked at 70# weight for years now. I mounted the lower pivot for the pitman that would have been welded to the compact spare to the cut out center of another wheel that fit that hub and then did not have to weld to the compact spare wheel. that took away the issues of welded to a wheel with the tire on it, I just used the same lug bolts that held the tire wheel on to hold the pivot wheel center on. I used a heavy turnbuckle from a building wind stay for the pitman and to give adjustment. Go as big here as you can as the threads take a beating load. My pivot for the helve is the rear cap off a hydraulic cylinder, with the mounting clevis to match. I used the original pin too. cross drilled every pivot for grease holes and added zerks for the grease. I use moly grease and have seen no pivot wear since 2002. I also uses rod end clevises and pins for the pittman end as well.I copied The Tire Hammer slide design and it works well.
Loren T - Sun 22 Apr 2018 07:01:50 #0
Joe-Picking up from a bench
I can relate to that. I tell people that anything close to the ground is no longer my friend. I had a conversation with a guy in Washington State at a yard sale. He had a new metal building shop about 30 x 50. It was pretty much empty and I wondered what was going on. Seems he had it built for a retirement
project. He did transmission rebuilds and figured he would do some side work when he retired. What he didn't foresee was that he could get down, but not back up. AND he didn't have enough head room to put in a hoist.
Jeff Reinhardt - Sun 22 Apr 2018 07:05:18 #0
Joe there are photos under my name in the gallery that show some of the details that may be helpful. I used a steel slug for the tire. It has the as turned finish on the rubbing surface. No observed wear since I installed it years ago. Some folks I know have used a Knurled surface and it makes the clutch too grabby and eats the tire. Have no fear of excess wear with a steel tire. Mine was made while I worked at the axle forge shop so it is a hunk of truck axle stock.
Joe Rollings - Tue 24 Apr 2018 10:28:36 #0
The forces in those machines are interesting. That spring provides a LOT of isolation for the parts holding and moving it. When I was running the one I built previously, it occurred to me that the linkages and pivot on the spring could be beaten to death in a couple of minutes under the hammer, but they run smooth and last long on the other end of the spring.
I also admired your trowels and other stuff. Would you care to share how much you sold those for? I am acquainted with a lot of mineral diggers. Again, thanks....Joe
Jeff Reinhardt - Tue 24 Apr 2018 16:29:15 #0
trowels and stuff
Joe I sell the RR spike trowels currently for $50 each and I sell my Messaluna choppers for $45. The choppers and trowels are both on ETSY and the choppers are on Handmade at Amazon.The trowel sales peaks and ebbs, as does Mesalunas.
Joe Rollings - Thu 26 Apr 2018 20:43:25 #0
I won't get into your marketplace or even online. I just think the rockhounds and arrowhead diggers would "dig" them.
Got the toggle assembly ready to put together and starting on the offset pin for the crankshaft. I'll prob'ly not weld it to the wheel, but only because my eyes tell me I should not trust my welding amy more. Mig is broken down and the wheels I have a pretty thin material for stick.
I might just turn some really long lug nuts on the lathe, thread them, bolt a plate to the tops of them and put the pin in the plate.
Taking the project slow and enjoying it.......Joe
Loren T - Fri 27 Apr 2018 08:09:40 #0
Joe, I am also questioning my welding. I haven't used a stick welder in years, and find out that old standby rod 7024 isn't stocked anymore, at least locally. I am replacing the tongue on a 25' trailer for a customer, and using a Miller Thunderbolt 225 AC I have had for 20 years. I forgot that the duty cycle is important, and when it just quit, I discovered I had melted the end off the transformer winding, which was aluminum. I have always wanted it to be a DC weld, and went to You Tube. For $25 I bought a bridge rectifier and rewired it. Now it is a DC and works great. I hooked up the High range, and just abandoned the low range. Now my welds are a lot better looking.
Joe Rollings - Fri 27 Apr 2018 11:05:25 #0
My problem is more in eyesight. I delivered a violent attack to a high lift jack handle with my head :) a long time ago that affected my right eye and it has had both good and lousy doctoring since then, some of which destroyed it's ability to react to light.
I simply cannot make out what is happening in the weld puddle like I used to. I guess I have some other rims like the one I will be using that I could practice on, but the idea of putting that kind of strain on the thin metal of the spare tire wheel has me picturing the whole plate coming off under load and giving me a thrashing.
I have gotten more cowardly in recent years, because at my age there is a decent chance that my heirs may be using or selling what I am building today....Joe
Jeff Reinhardt - Sun 29 Apr 2018 06:52:44 #0
pivot mount on tire clutch
Joe Rollings, I would recommend using the lug nuts to hold another steel part against the clutch wheel as a geed alternative to welding to the actual wheel. That is what I did and it has worked well for many years. If you use the center of another wheel with the rim cut off, you may be able to use the existing lugs. if you use the rear hub bearing assembly as I did and then remove the backing plate and the brake drum it is pretty clean and the thickness of the brake drum is about the thickness of the second wheel center.
Joe Rollings - Wed 02 May 2018 22:58:27 #0
power hammer parts
I am working with the rear tire and wheel from a Geo Metro, which has 4 lug bolts. I took off the rear hubs which have the brake drums integral with the hubs and discovered that the splines on the lug bolts were a tad undersize to drill out for 1/2" uss threaded rod, so I drilled them, and tapped for 1/2" coarse thread, extended them a bit and will soon mount an old sprocket to the extended lugs with pipe spacers and weld a large nut to the sprocket to accept the crank pin.
Next chore is to either salvage the spindles from the Geo or turn fresh ones and weld them to a support block. Getting cranked as things come together.
Remaining major component is the guide for the hammer. Part of me wants to just go steel on steel and use a high quality grease, but another part wants to make brass gibs that are adjustable. 5/8" round brass is available for gibs and I have everything I need to make them, but doing it right is one thing and wasting time and material is another.
Any thoughts? And, by the way, thank you for your help. Nothing in this world is equal to a guy who has "been there and done that"....Again....thanks ...Joe
Jeff Reinhardt - Thu 03 May 2018 19:03:47 #0
power hammer parts
Joe, I did a take on the tire hammer ram and guides. I used 1/4" wall 6" square tube with a 5" square tube for the ram. I used 1/4" UHMWPE for the bearing surfaces. Has worked well for 7 years and just now thinking about some new poly for the bearings. I used countersunk flat head screws through the tube wall to retain and that has worked well. The ram has a 3" or so think block welded inside the open end and was plug welded from the side. That is drilled and tapped for the dies. I filled the open remaining space with drops of 2.25" by .5" flat bar with lots of stick weld.I had two of those bars extended up above the tube to carry the rollers to ride above and below the spring. If I rebuild I will probably go to a rubber bushed link as there is a clatter as the rollers bounce back and forth against the spring.
Chuck - Sun 06 May 2018 18:15:24 #0
DARRELL--- Which island do you live on? The Hawaii Island is catching it? Lava flow and quakes, bad mocus.
Not likely to let up anytime soon?
HOT and DRY here.
Planting garden--hope the heat does not turn up like it did last year.
We have had a steady high wind for weeks. Less than an inch of moisture in the last seven months. Fires keep cropping up around the panhandle.
I put a kiddy wading pool of water out(with a 2X4 in it)for the quail and pheasants, in case any wanted to nest around here.
We are closer each day to having a rain.
Darrell - Mon 07 May 2018 03:59:48 #0
We are about 80 miles from the lava outbreak. It is moving away from us and
the current outbreak is no danger to us. We did have a 6.9 earthquake a
couple of days ago. We were far enough away that it was simply a small shaking. It is quite a trial for the people that live in the subdivision
where the lava is surfacing. As of tonight, 30 homes have been destroyed.
The sulfur dioxide gas is quite heavy in the Leilani subdivision.
They let people in 2 selected areas to retrieve property when it is safe.
Buck Brown - Thu 10 May 2018 10:08:26 #0
Thanks for the up-date, Darrell. Knee mail up for those not so fortunate.
Joe Rollings - Sat 19 May 2018 22:33:57 #0
Power hammer stuff
To catch up anybody else who is building one, the easy way out for the drive wheel to rub the tire is an X series weld-on sprocket hub in the proper size bore for the motor shaft. The OD will be about 2 1/2" but one can bore and then turn on the lathe a 2" hole in a larger round bar and weld in the hub, if one has a metal lathe. That will get you an accurate hole for the motor shaft, a proper set screw and keyway to keep the hub on the shaft and running true.
Total price.....$12....well worth the money.....Joe
Jeff Reinhardt - Sun 20 May 2018 06:40:10 #0
Joe Rollings. The weld in hub is a good shortcut. My steel wheel to rub the tire is about 2 1/2" od so that would work as is on mine.
bruce godlesky - Sat 26 May 2018 10:57:45 #0
Hope everyone enjoys this special day coming up. It's not about the celebration , it's the sacrifice paid by many.
I always attend a small visitation by the local VFW to the "home" cematery where I was raised and a lot of family is buried. Lots of memories there......
Been attending since I was a kid.
Smithing content..... getting some cable billets cleaned up I started this week. Making a run of BBQ tools, flippers and squirrel forks. Labor intensive but fun stuff!!
Alex Ivey - Wed 30 May 2018 19:50:33 #0
Sorry to say I had to cancel my registration for the conference today due to the wife's continuing cancer treatments. I thought we would be able to attend but found that it just can't happen. LXIV,
Tom C - Fri 01 Jun 2018 21:21:44 #0
Sorry to hear you can't make it. I was looking forward to catching up with you. Family comes first,however, especially the missus.Here's hoping for a full recovery.
Joe Rollings - Sat 02 Jun 2018 20:02:26 #0
Really sorry to hear of your wife's illness. Prayers up for her quick recovery.....Joe
Joe Rollings - Sat 02 Jun 2018 20:34:28 #0
Power hammer stuff
Power hammer is well along the road to completion, and have to come to a few decisions that would be a bit difficult to re-make after the fact.
Have a 7" mechanical stroke and guesstimate will have about 12" of combined total stroke. There is 16" of ram movement inside the guide, so I can do an additional 4" max of adjustment with the turnbuckle, and even more by adding and removing dies and anvil extensions.
The anvil top itself is about 10" deep, front to back and about 2 feet wide, side to side. It is an old tractor weight somewhere between 1000 and 1300 pounds, so the entire hammer may be near a ton, but it seems like I should put a smaller top on the anvil, like a 5 " round or square, up a few inches from the top of the weight, just because of the difficulty of finding a way to get tongs flat on the side of the hammering surface, if that makes sense. I have lots of material to choose from, including 3" square bar which I can double up on to make a 6" square, 3 inches high, or a 1" 16 X 16" plate I can cut any shape from.
I also have to choose what goes on the bottom of the ram. I have read endless discussions about dies V. bottom tools like spring fullers, etc. The ram is made from the 3" square bar, and it would be easy enough to put a 6" section of that crossways on the end of the ram and make a pins-in-holes arrangement to lock other 3" wide dies to that, but which might make it tougher to use bottom tooling.
So far, after I truly got started, things have gone really well, and I have made the guide with brass gibs inserted into milled slots and adjusting screws, got a removable plate system for the wheel and took far more time and care than I ever used to when building a machine, because at this age, my Grandson may wind up running it after I am gone, and it would suck for him to get hurt on my machine. Or anybody else, for that matter.
Of course, I realize most of the questions I have asked are up to the individual and have no 100% always-right answers, but anything along the lines of discussion about what causes the most frustration will help to make my choices. Once I have that guide mounted, it would be a major hassle to decide it needed to have a 6" block welded to or taken off of the anvil and the guide height changed.
I also wanted to add that if anybody has a surface they would like to add a hardy hole to, those same weld-on x series sprocket hubs come in square holes from about 3/4" to maybe 1 1/4", and one could drill a round hole topped with one of those and have a nice tight hardy hole.
Thanks in advance for any help......Joe
Chuck - Tue 05 Jun 2018 23:48:53 #0
Stuff and hammer
ALEX Sorry to hear about the Missus. Hoped she was doing better. Blessings to y'all you are on our prayer list.
JOE you need room to change dies and work your metal and tongs--fullers. I like the room on my Giant '50'.
I would like to have at least 6" clearance including top and bottom, more if possible.
I work around my hammers to 180 or 200 degrees. Sometimes a helper is holding tongs or fullers from a 90 to me.
My dies are close to three inches wide and as much as six inches long.
Hope this might be something you were wanting to know.
Blessings to the folks on 'Big Island'.
Cimarron, NM folks got to go back home. Ute Park, NM still has 200 dwellings threatened.
Joe Rollings - Thu 07 Jun 2018 22:41:05 #0
Glad to hear
that ute park still HAS 200 buildings. News made it sound like they were all gone.
Good stuff about the hammers, Chuck.....Thanks......Joe
Buck Brown - Fri 08 Jun 2018 12:20:54 #0
Anyone heard from Darrell?
We're in the high 90's here already. Need to make handles for 2 branding irons I made for a friend, so I better get it done soon.
Talked to a friend near Glenwood Springs, Colorado, my old home town. The Colorado River usually peaks after June 15th. It peaked the 1st of June this year at 50% of normal run off.
Darrell - Fri 08 Jun 2018 12:58:42 #0
Finished re-building the Bridgeport and now I am converting the Enco lathe to CNC.
Made the timing pulleys for that on the Bridgeport.
Pulled the engine on my 98 Forester and fixed the oil leak and put it back.
Next project is to re-build my power hammer and see if I can get it to run the way it should.
Alex Ivey - Fri 15 Jun 2018 17:00:12 #0
Joe & Chuck
I thank you both for your prayers concerning my wife's cancer and treatments. She is done with chemo and radiation and things are looking better at this point but only time will tell if everything she went through works out for her. Her doctor that did the operation and guided her through the treatments is very optimistic that she will have a full recovery Thanks again guys. LXIV,
Chuck - Sun 17 Jun 2018 01:45:54 #0
ALEX glad to hear a positive prognosis.
The bad part of growing older is the gradual--sometimes drastic downward spiral of our health.
Looks like my eye deal is permanent, I will find something to occupy my time. Garden is off to a good start.
We got an inch and a quarter Friday, with another sixty seven hundreds this afternoon. This old country is going to be green once again.
The prospects for more rain this coming week seems good.
Tonight Derek, our fifth grandson brought a ten foot piece of two inch draw bar stock. I would guess this steel to be 40 series steel.
DARRELL good luck amigo, the volcano seems to want to turn its self wrong side out.
Keep the gas masks handy. Meter the Sulphur Dioxide(sp) bad stuff.
Tom C - Fri 22 Jun 2018 08:02:27 #0
Big doings in the Old Dominion
Well it's less than a week to the start of the ABANA Conference here in Virginia. Our gild has lent a bunch of equipment to help out. I've lent a Vulcan anvil to the Learning tent. It looks like the weather will be cooperative with PM showers on Thursday only. I look forward to seeing my metal mangler buds here on my home turf. Besides the gallery at the conference, there are 2 shows of metalwork in the area. Gallery Flux in Ashland has a show of various smiths & CVBG has a little exhibition at Artworx in Richmond. I invite anyone to get in touch with me for shop visits or a trip to Dominion Salvage on Southside for interesting metal doodads.
Darrell - Sat 30 Jun 2018 19:38:41 #0
Well I have the CNC mill up and running. Just one major problem, I can't seem to get the darn thing to do what I wanted to do. It keeps doing exactly what I told it to do. Seeings as it refuses to learn I guess I'm just going to have to break down and teach myself.
Alex Ivey - Fri 06 Jul 2018 12:57:30 #0
So how was the conf. Sorry I had to miss it, LXIV,
Joe Rollings - Sat 07 Jul 2018 22:36:13 #0
on that silly power hammer. The older I get the slower I get and the less sure of myself. 10 years ago I would have had it together in 1/4 the time and lived with how it turned out, but all of a sudden I am picky and questioning everything I do.
Ready to deal with the dies, and have noticed from reading that everybody who started out with flat dies is REALLY glad they did, while everybody who started out with changeable bolt-on or dovetail dies is ALSO really glad that they did. Go figure.
I looked at Clifton Ralf's die clamp and like it, but dunno if it will keep a top die in place or not. Not a good thing to be hit in the chest with if the clamp fails.
The top die attachment will be my last big decision, or perhaps deciding whether to just stick with flat dies and loose tooling. Anybody got any opinions to add that might help me make it?
Chuck, as you might recall, I gave up on my eyes for any precision work almost 20 years ago after being whacked with a jack handle and seeing curves where none existed. After a few years passed, my mind corrected what I was seeing and I got another decade of hand grinding silversmith tools off hand to REALLY tight tolerances. Take your pulse every morning. If you ain't dead, you ain't finished......Joe
Darrell - Sun 08 Jul 2018 00:22:47 #0
Change in the wind
Well working towards a new adventure. If I can sell this house in the near future
we will be moving to Eugene Oregon area. There is a lot to do to make this happen.
We need to get the extra stuff sold off and some minor repairs on the building
and then find somebody that wants to buy this place.
Chuck - Sun 08 Jul 2018 23:56:29 #0
DARRELL---We are with you. Anything we might be able help you with let us know. We have some twice removd cousins in Eugene.
I am like you I would just move on. I can imagine the day to day worry that everybody is experiencing over there.
Joe we have got a strong idler button over here. Can't stay hooked on a hoe handle very long at a time. Just now starting to get gather a little from the green patch.
We have had a total of just over three inches of moisture since September 30. Nine months and most of this came in small increments. We had one rain of 1.25 ---thought we had a flood. Grin. Could be worse---We have not had a fire or killer storm come through.
Blessings DARRELL hope everything works out alright.
Joe Rollings - Mon 09 Jul 2018 19:47:53 #0
Darrell, we moved 11 times in 50 years, and always recall those moves, the big ones at least, as times of big excitement and anticipation, with good cause. Born under a wandering star, I guess. Still get the urge from time to time, but I suspect we will finish up here.
One piece of unasked for advice, simply because I can't help myself.
In all of those moves, I cannot recall a single time when our previous house was sold by a realtor. Not that we have not tried them, but if they get an inkling that you are in a bit of a hurry to get the place sold, they will overprice it, go through all sorts of contortions to stall it off, then when they sense you are desperate, bring around a favored client that will kick some money back to them ro make an offer on it themselves.
Just saw that story get re-played again just down the road. Owner was happy that the realtor thought the place was worth so much and listed it so high, months dragged by, next thing you know, the realtor owned it for a pittance and now has it up for rent.
In the instances when we listed homes with realtors, the term expired and they cane around to relist, I refused, had it sold myself in about a month both times. Just saying......Joe
Darrell; - Mon 09 Jul 2018 22:33:14 #0
Thanks Joe. Not much in favor of agents myself. Seems they want a lot for not doing much of anything.
Darrell - Tue 10 Jul 2018 12:46:22 #0
The X axis ballscrew is working now I just have to get the Z axis going.
Loren T - Wed 11 Jul 2018 08:07:53 #0
Real estate agents
The town where we lived in the AZ mountains had a population of about 3000, 5000 plus cabins, and 7 real estate offices plus 3 new developments that had their own agents. I knew one couple who bought a cabin from one agent, then sold it and bought another one 3 more times over about 6 or 7 years. I lump real estate agents together with lawyers, accountants, and bankers. They produce NOTHING and merely live off the labors and heartaches of others. Years ago the Multiple Listing Service publication was like the holy grail and not to be shown to the general public. It was jealously guarded. Now you can take virtual tours via the internet put together by homeowners themselves. Sale documents are handled by a title company. Now who needs agents?
Darrell - Wed 11 Jul 2018 23:52:50 #0
I need 6 pieces of steel, 4340 or 5160 1/8 of an inch by 3/4 of an inch by 18 inches.
Where what I look for something like that? I could get away with 1 inch with but I am not having any luck finding anything close. Any help would be appreciated.
Joe Rollings - Thu 12 Jul 2018 11:05:24 #0
I dunno anything about 4340, but 5160 is all over the place in the form of auto leaf springs. I think you might have to split the width and forge the thickness down from about .200 which is a fair amount of work, but that would get you there.
I have been caught in those shopping "traps" where you spend lots more time searching than if you had just resolved to resize what is easy to get. The bi-metal bandsaw blades will split the leaf springs as-tempered and if you have a power hammer you can use a kiss block to beat the stuff to thickness.
You can copy and paste this to get to admiral steel's offerings of 5160;
Joe Rollings - Thu 12 Jul 2018 11:13:08 #0
These guys have the right thickness but it would need to be ripped more narrow...
Chuck - Sun 15 Jul 2018 00:02:49 #0
DARRELL: The various steel sell about any steel you want. You may have to work it over a little.
The one steel outfit I have found with drops and the 18" --36" lengths is Amektek Steel. I will be in the shop tomorrow.
Freddie Haire told me about them. I kinda like them except I believe might be an Arab. company.
Good service, prices, assorted sizes.
If you have anybody building -off road vehicles-----Like from Jeeps-- They take the brand new coiled springs off the Jeeps. The 9/16" or 5/8" 5160 in these coiled springs works excellently.
You do have a hammer or press?
How much you need?
Dryer than a pop-corn fart out here.
I hope the lava flows have slowed up. We are not getting news about them now.
Chuck - Sun 15 Jul 2018 00:05:50 #0
AMETEK STEEL----I will be in the shop tomorrow for the right addy.
Chuck - Sun 15 Jul 2018 00:09:45 #0
www.amteksteel.com This seems to be the National or Global addy.
Hope this helps.
Darrell - Sun 15 Jul 2018 13:23:49 #0
I ordered some 1095 from Adm. Steele because I figure it will do what I need It to do.
It came in the 0.125" x 1" x 18" that I needed. Thank you all for the help.